installation into Yamaha Silent

its a good guitar, handy, good price, but the first versions tried to be a studio and turned out noisy and consuming too much battery. so professionals want to upgrade the guitar. like a miracle the Polybass fits perfectly into it! even the screws have the same distance. so we made quite an effort to find the same parts and create a board with the exact same dimensions that can replace the original board nearly without soldering

since the exchange of the pickups and Polybass electronics turn out almost as expensive as the instrument itself (which does not mean that it does not make sense, right?) we now we also offer a mono version for the original pickup. it adds the wooDi effect and turns the instrument low noise and gives the battery a very long life

1 unscrew black plastic (8 screws)

2 unscrew board (2 metallic screws with plastic washers)

3 disconnect the two cables to the preamp which sits in the metallic frame

4 remove the original pickup by loosening strings, removing bone and pushing it back through its hole

5 drill 6 2mm holes for the new pickup cables and install them (possibly needs help from a luthier)

6 remove the metal holder of the preamp (4 screws)

7 remove 4 white connectors from the board

8 remove the board by pushing the controls knobs and 3 screws

9 remove the Aux board

10 turn the output jack 90deg clockwise

11 get the replacement board that fits all connectors, controls and screw holes

12 the Polybass board connects to it, you can do that later

13 place the board by inserting the controls axis and LED first

14 connect two white connectors, there is no way to do it wrong

15 use the original two screws to fix the board

16 connect the polybass and miraculously the spacers can be screwed through the original holes in the plastic!


20 its not really necessary, but for more stability, we recommend to saw off the small “bridge” of the aluminum structure…

21 …and screw it to the original position (on the neck side)

22 if you use RMC or Paradis pickups with non-insulated shield, you should insulate the wires or attach them somehow, otherwise they can do bad contacts to the board (in long term, shrinking tube is better than tape)

23 if you want the 13pin connector, you should inform us when ordering, we can solder it to the board.

24 it partly fits to the DC supply opening which is not needed any more because the battery lasts long. so you just have to open that hole, make it round…  Switzerland and Germany